Days 14 - Stratford-upon-Avon Canal (North Branch)

The Stratford-upon-Avon Canal runs from the leafy Birmingham suburb of Kings Norton to Stratford-upon-Avon was built between 1793 and 1816 and runs for 41 km in total. It consists of two sections. The dividing line is at Kingswood Junction in the village of Lapworth, which gives access to the Grand Union Canal. We will be only navigating along the northern section, the first 21 km which takes us in a more south easterly direction.

Stratford-upon-Avon Canal (North Branch)

The canal winds its way until Hockley Heath following the 138m (above sea level) Birmingham Level, but then descends quite rapidly through the Lapworth flight of 18 locks to reach the Kingswood Junction.

Approaching Lock No. 7 on the Lapworth Flight

During this lock free section we encountered a new navigational novelty - three opening bridges. The first - an electrically operated drawbridge (complete with traffic controls to stop the cars) at Shirley, and then a manually operated lift bridge and another drawbridge (also manual).

Shirley Drawbridge

Farm Lift Bridge No. 26

Farm Draw Bridge No. 28

Steve was delighted to get the opportunity to operate two of these three bridges. We didn't get to wind up No. 28 as the lockie from the passing boat got there ahead of us and insisted on holding it open whilst we also passed under the open span. (The feeling of camaraderie among the visiting and permanent members of the narrowboating community is another of the special aspects of spending time on these fabulous inland waterways.) I offered to reverse back up the canal so we could repeat the process but the other crew members overruled Steve on this occasion.

Lining up to enter a lock in the Lapworth Flight

As the canal meanders towards Lapworth, you could be easily forgiven for thinking that the only reason for the canal's existence is for boating holidays and pleasure boating. But (believe it or not) there were hard commercial reasons for the building of the canal in the first place. The original plan was for the transportation of coal from the River Severn up to Birmingham. By 1890 the value of commodities carried on the canal was less than 25% of that when the canal first opened. By 1950 the canal section at the Lapworth end had badly silted up, and several of the lock gates were leaking and in dire need of repair. There was a move to close the canal altogether, but these proposals were met with loud protests from canal societies and a campaign was mounted to "save the Stratford Canal".

An asset worth saving?

In 1959 the National Trust were successful in leasing the canal, and restoration then commenced in earnest.  Much for the work was done by prison labourers, and volunteers who belonged to the National Trust and other bodies like the Inland Waterways Association Waterways Recovery Group. The formal re-opening ceremony was in 1964, and the canal and River Avon have since proved to be one of the most popular of all the canals among leisure boat owners and users.

Bridges needed to maintain a continuous tow path

Part way along this northern section of the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal we paused briefly to "inspect" the Birmingham Society of Model Engineers site at Illshaw Heath.

Double arched tunnel at Illshaw Heath site

Founded in 1936 the society has grown to have one of the largest model engineering club memberships in the United Kingdom. Their facilities and extensive grounds are quite impressive, with a 1112 ft. dual gauge 5/7.25” gauge ground level track and raised 1041 ft dual gauge 5/3.5” gauge track.

Loco running day at Illshaw Heath

Both tracks are controlled by an extensive signalling system. Footbridges and a brick built, double arched tunnel span the two tracks and stations, paved platforms, signal boxes, steaming bays and an engine shed serve the two circuits. Unfortunately the society were not operating on the day we passed by so we had to be satisfied with a "quick look".

Part view of the Birmingham Society of Model Engineers site

Having satisfied Steve's and my interest in the Illshaw Heath facility we were back on the canal heading for the Lapworth Flight. We found a number of fine examples of cast iron split bridges. in this stretch of canal.

Steve standing on (split) bridge no. 36 at Kingswood Junction)

Before explaining the purpose of the split bridge we should consider the role of the tow horse. In the early days of the Canal Age (from about 1740) boat horses were the prime movers of the Industrial Revolution, and they remained at work until the middle of the 20th century. A horse, towing a boat with a rope from the towpath, could pull fifty times as much cargo as it could pull in a cart or wagon on roads. Many of the surviving buildings and structures were designed with horse power in mind.

Split bridge No. 39

For a variety of reasons, the towpath had to switch from one side of the canal to the other. Turnover or roving bridges allowed the towing horse to cross the canal without the tow line getting caught up in the bridge. Split bridges were used around locks to enable the towing line to pass through the bridge when the towpath did not go under the bridge.

The particularly attractive Kingswood Junction is a favourite for narrowboaters, gongoozlers*, walkers and sightseers and so I shouldn't have been so surprised just how appealing this location looked as we approached Lock 19.

* A gongoozler is a person who enjoys watching activity on the canals of the United Kingdom

Kingswood Junction

As we were leaving the Stratford-upon-Avon Canal and joining the Grand Union we took Eleanor through Lock 20 before swinging left into Lapworth Link

Eleanor approaching Lock 20 with crew mates Anne and Steve waiting patiently on the tow path

Self-indulgent pic of the Skipper at the tiller in the pound above Lock 20

Reflections near village of Dickens Heath

Just as depicted in the shot above of the canal next to houses in Dickens Heath, the canals mostly go around the towns and villages. They meander through half-forgotten places. They take you across viaducts and through long tunnels. They force you to travel slowly, too, so that those fields and meadows fleetingly glimpsed from a train or car are brought beautifully, individually, into focus as you slip by at 4mph. Anyone who does not think this is time well spent has (sadly) never discovered that narrowboating is the surest and the fastest way of slowing down.

Much moor still to come.

The Skipper.