Days 8, 9 and 10 - Staffordshire & Worcestershire - Wolverhampton to Worcester

Beyond the junction with the Old Main Line Canal the Staffs and Worcs meanders in a south west direction following the River Stour valley as it heads for the River Severn at Stourport.

Staffs and Worcs Canal from the Old Main Line Canal Jn. to Stourport on Severn

Once at Stourport the canal transforms into the wide River Severn which we followed for another 20 km to Diglis Junction at Worcester.

River Severn from Stourport on Severn to Worcester

Day 9 turned out to be an eventful day starting with some minor engine issues that developed late the previous afternoon. We were asked to limp to the nearest marina and refill the gearbox with oil. In the process of maneuvering backwards out of the marina, yours truly (the Skipper) slipped and fell into the canal. There was immediate concern from the crew that I was going to be crushed between two narrowboats, Angus (at the helm) skillfully keep the two vessels apart while I "walked" out to the nearest bank where a ladder was kindly provided. Although the bed of the canal was extremely soft the rumours are true, you can easily stand up. Sadly, dear reader, there are no photos of this excitement, but I hasten to add, was not out of any respect for the Skipper's dignity.

Ashwood Marina, Stourbridge

Our friends Anne and Steve were meeting up with us on this day as well and the detour to the marina completely messed up our plans (making up time when travelling at under 4mph is not really an option). The normally very efficient Midlands Trains normalised the problem by creating a signal box fire alarm which threw every schedule out the window. The rendezvous finally occurred further back up the cut (ie. going in the reverse direction) at the Navigation Inn (Greensforge).

Navigation Inn

Which brings me to a point of clarification - my friend and colleague Drew has raised the concept of relative direction as an interesting source of potential confusion in my ramblings. When I refer to going up (or down) this could reasonably be interpreted as either

• navigating in a generally northern (up) or southern (down) direction which most Australians would probably agree is a very arbitrary concept (us being from down-under), or alternatively, and quite perceptively, 
• climbing from sea level, or valley up hill to the top of a hill or plateau or down from a plateau towards the coastal or plain.  

Clearly I should resist the use of up and down altogether to avoid further confusion however if I do stray, the meaning will be the cartographers convention.

Approaching Dunsley Tunnel

Angus at the tiller exiting Dunsley Tunnel

 Several sections of the canal in this part of the Staffs and Worcs were built through or along the edge of sandstone cliffs or cuttings creating interesting and contrasting views of the adjacent countryside.

Late afternoon mist rolling off the adjacent farm

Standing on the back of boat at 4mph for hours gives you plenty of time to reflect on the incredibly beautiful tranquil world of canals and rivers that the citizens of the EU are blessed with and that we citizens from the colonies (and others) are privileged to have the opportunity to experience. I never tired of the constantly unfolding parameters of water that revealed such beauty, especially the green field agricultural vistas that you would need a heart of stone to ignore and be unmoved by.

A thousand shades of green

A magical photo opportunity

Of course an expedition of this magnitude requires careful planning (did someone mention Burke and Wills?). Critical to the success of this discovery voyage have been our crew who double as first class lock operators. 

Helen and Anne operating a lock gate

Amongst the history of narrow canals in the West Midlands is the surprise and contrasting presence of a fairground next to the Clock Basin at Stourport Junction.

Stourport Junction Clock Basin

The cathedral city of Worcester lies roughly halfway between Birmingham and Gloucester on the banks of the River Severn. The most prominent feature (both visually and historically is the 12th century Anglican cathedral. Built between 1084 and 1504, Worcester Cathedral represents every style of English architecture from Norman to Perpendicular Gothic.

Worcester Cathedral from the Severn River

The Cathedral contains the tomb of King John in its chancel. Before his death in Newark in 1216, John had requested to be buried at Worcester.

Dragonboat races along the River Severn as we approached Diglis Junction

Worcester is the site of the final battle of the Civil War, where Oliver Cromwell's New Model Army defeated King Charles I's Cavaliers in 1651. We stumbled across the site of Sidbury Gate (part of the city wall) which was stormed by parliamentarian troops who's objective was to the overthrow both the Crown and Parliament's authority. The site is marked by a striking work of public art depicting English civil war figures in armour.

  

Crew inspecting the English civil war figures near the Commandery on Sidbury Bridge, Worcester

Finally, Worcester is famous (amongst other things) for being

• home (for much of his life) of the composer Sir Edward Elgar, and
• the location of the Lea & Perrins factory where traditional Worcestershire Sauce is made.

Edward Elgar, c. 1900

Elgar has been described as the first composer to take the gramophone seriously. Between 1914 and 1925, he conducted a series of acoustic recordings of his works. The introduction of the microphone in 1925 made far more accurate sound reproduction possible, and Elgar made new recordings of most of his major orchestral works.

Crossing the Staffs and Worcs just south of Kidderminster, the 16-mile Severn Valley Heritage Railway line runs along the Severn Valley from Bridgnorth to Kidderminster. Train services are hauled predominantly by steam locomotives. It is one of the most popular heritage railways in the country however the day we were scheduled to pass by they were operating a private event so no chance of a planned (guaranteed) sighting. As we approached the bridge we spotted a photographer on the tow path. "How long before the train leaves Kidderminster?" I asked. "Any minute" was the reply. You can get lucky sometimes.

No. 7812 Erlestoke Manor (GWR 78 "Manor" Class 4-6-0) crossing Falling Sands viaduct

Withdrawn from British Railways service in November 1965, 7812 Erlestoke Manor was sent to Woodham Brothers scrapyard in Barry, South Wales. Presently one of three preserved GWR 78 Manor Class locomotives based at the Severn Valley Heritage Railway, the other two being 7802 Bradley Manor and GWR 7819 Hinton Manor.

That's it for now.

Moor to follow on the Worcester and Birmingham Canal in the next post . . . .

The Skipper